Wheel and Pinion Cutter
Part 2
The cutter is usually of the 'fly' variety which can be made in
a pinch (this can come in handy when making a new wheel in
an antique clock which was certainly made in the days before
M42 HSS cutters could shape the perfect radial flank on a
spur). The flycutter is held by a set screw in a 3/8" arbor and
held in a Sherline Headstock with one of their 3/8" End Mill
The Headstock is bolted to a steel plate, which in turn is
bolted to a vertical milling column (giving me the adjustable
Z-Axis). The column is then bolted to another, smaller milling
table which gives 2 methods of adjusting the X & Y Axis.
The pulley system is another homemade arrangement: some
of the parts come from an old magnetic dial indicator base
which I never use. The double pulley and belt came from
MSC for just a few dollars. It is completely adjustable and
travels with the X & Y movements since it's bolted to the rear
milling table.
Now, let me say right up front: I know very little about
electronics, and I feel that a little bit of knowledge about it is a
very dangerous thing indeed!        However...that being said,
I had a treadmill stored in my basement for a long time -  
- coincidentally, I needed a variable speed motor for my
wheelcutter, which, by chance was only a few feet away from
said treadmill and...ahhhh... it was love at first sight.....They
were soon married>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I didn't feel it was necessary to dismantle the entire electronic
unit, so I kept the control panel which I have bolted to the
back of the bench.....now I feel like I'm in an episode of
Bionic Man
as I cut my wheels and pinions; I even need the
green plastic keycard which I have to insert in order to start
'er up. Unfortunately I disengaged the heart monitor wiring so
I can't tell what my heart rate is when I finish a 96 tooth great
Back to Home
Treadmill control panel with its motor (in front) covered by a
plastic bread box (nothin' but the best!!) to keep out stray chips.